[Reo Baird]

Mr. Jack Walker, on 02 September 2010 - 11:27 PM, said:

order any lately? the cheapest i could get mymains and rod for a hella common ka was ~ 150 ish

man properly seting up a crank to regrind isnt quick either, go to a real reputible shop and find out how much it costs to be done right

http://www.enginepar.../Detail?no=1357

KA bearigns for $150?... err... $121 and you get:

Chrome Piston Ring Set (Std, .020, .040)
<li>Rod Bearing Set (Standard, .010, .020)
<li>Main Bearing Set ( Standard, .010, .020)
<li>Full Gasket Set Incl Rear Main Seal


They are local in Victoria as well.

As far as performance stuff, and SR parts, i bring it all in from the states. I only use ACL coated bearings, and they cost me sub-$150 for rods, mains and thrust washers.

PS: I only deal with reputable shops.

matt froese, on 02 September 2010 - 11:38 PM, said:

Reo, how much did you sell derek ellis that long block for? was it 1200? just block and head? so $1200 - $50 short block = a hella expensive head... dang
... i dont even know why ppl are talking about ca's like they are an engine worth looking at i have had 3 that were complete garbage before going to sr, and could probably produce more torque with pedal power

finally something dope hit me and i jumped back into the motor i started with 5 years ago

There is a big difference a running longblock vs a head or block.

A longblock is a running ready-to-go motor.

A shortblock is a rebuildable core.

The market is completely different. Longblock = for your avarage shop/DIYer who wants to drop in an new motor. Shortblock/head = for people who know how to build engines, and want a core to rebuild.

Thus, the prices are completely different. the $1000 range is a fair price for a good condition proven running longblock.

Jordan Gladman, on 03 September 2010 - 08:04 AM, said:

I would agree that bearings can be had for less than $200, my ACL bearings were only $100ish for rod and main, but machining the crank is still an unnecessary expense when you can get short blocks with good cranks for an alleged $100. A fresh ground crank is no better/more reliable than a low KM's one in good condition.

If you were "stupid to buy a shortblock".. you'd be stupid to buy a long block. If a good condition short block is only good as a core to rebuild, you could say that about the whole motor. The short block is the only thing that really matters anyways. Its like saying you have to rebuild any SR before you put it in your car.

If Ben COULD~ find a short block for cheap, bolt his head onto it and throwing it back into his car it would only cost him a head gasket. But we all know this $100 bottom end business is BS anyways, everytime you blow an SR bottom end you're out 1-2K$. Theres no way he's going to pull his block, break it down and just grind the crank. If hes disassembling the bottom end, hes likely doing a full rebuild. $$ For the same price someone could get their crank ground for, you could find a free KA and have the entire thing rebuilt w/ forged rods and pistons.

An SR bottom end costs $400-500 to rebuild, TOPS.

A whole SR can be redone for under $1000.

[Jordan Gladman]

A GOOD~ SR would cost 400-500 to rebuild. But if you spin a bearing and drive 500km's, you score the crap out of your crank, and destroy your rod.

If you had a clean block with good bores, you could get away with a honing and decking. But in Ben's case for example. He's going to be looking at $400-500 just to get the crank ground and micro polished. Im not sure where you get your machine work done, but any reputable shops would charge atleast that around here.

I made it very clear in previous posts that I was refering to a GOOD short block. Good meaning a crank that didnt require machining, clean bores etc. This reinforces my original point, even a stock short block in "ready-to-go" condition is worth atleast a K. IMO, the crank is the most valueble part of the short block. Blocks usually dont wear out, its almost always the crank surfaces that go when a bearing goes, so usually finding a good block is a lot easier than finding a good crank that wont require grinding.

This post has been edited by Jordan Gladman: Today, 10:08 AM

[Reo Baird]

Jordan Gladman, on 03 September 2010 - 11:06 AM, said:

A GOOD~ SR would cost 400-500 to rebuild. But if you spin a bearing and drive 500km's, you score the crap out of your crank, and destroy your rod.

If you had a clean block with good bores, you could get away with a honing and decking. But in Ben's case for example. He's going to be looking at $400-500 just to get the crank ground and micro polished. Im not sure where you get your machine work done, but any reputable shops would charge atleast that around here.

I made it very clear in previous posts that I was refering to a GOOD short block. Good meaning a crank that didnt require machining, clean bores etc. This reinforces my original point, even a stock short block in "ready-to-go" condition is worth atleast a K. IMO, the crank is the most valueble part of the short block. Blocks usually dont wear out, its almost always the crank surfaces that go when a bearing goes, so usually finding a good block is a lot easier than finding a good crank that wont require grinding.

I think your definition of a good shortblock differs from mine. I work at a shop, we have very set rates and values that we assign things. When i say shortblock, i mean it will be good AFTER a micropolish, and new bearings. I will reitterate: i have never paid more than $100 for a shortblock. And i've bought several.

Unless we're talking a rebuilt shortblock thats ready to accept a head, that is what i am talking about. A rebuild shortblock, in ready-to-go shape, with new bearing/rings/etc. is worth a lot more than a shortblock with a good crank that just needs to be polished and new bearings (ie a "shortblock").

Anyone that buys a shortblock in unknown running condition and just slaps a head on it is an idiot and deserves to pay $1000. Shortblock = disassemble, clean, micropolish, hone, new bearings/rings, reassemble.


IE: an unknown longblock SR20 is worth $200-500. A rebuild longblock SR20 is worth $1000-1500.


Also, what kind of fly-by-night rip-off machine shop charges $500 for a crank grind?